Day 30: Fall into Santa Cruz - Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz

After loading up on the free breakfast from the motel we set off into the fog. The beginning of the day the road rose and fell with the dliffs, the climbs not too bad and the roads not terribly busy for labour day.

There was a long hall of no shops or running water so we made sure to load up before we set off. The road was full of day beach areas, each filled with families setting up for BBQs to celebtate the holiday.

We stopped to eat our lunch at Bean ollow State beach sticking to the north side of the beach, full of rock pools and a lot quite than the south side.

It was a hard day for us in the fact that there was so much fog, it made the ride a bit boring as you couldn't see anything. Some of the cliffs you were riding through would have been stunning, but I guess we have been lucky with views until now.

Breaking up the afternoon we stooped at an organic strawberry farm, which gave a discount to cyclists and treated ourselves to a delicious homemade strawberry short cake, yum yum yum. After leaving the farm the shoulder crossed some train tracks, I slowed down and role over the first, but I caught my front wheel in the second groove next to the track and managed to fall with my bike into the road. Luckily the road was clear and I was going really slow so I think my pride hurt more than my bottom, but got a fright none the less.

Arriving into Santa Cruz was so weird. Two seconds ago we had been on an almost deralict fog ridden rugged coast and all of a sudden we were in in a fun fueled university town with plam trees and rollercoasters.

This place was far too much fun to just roll on through, so we found a cheap motel and decided to explore the boardwalk.

Miles today 50. Total miles 1274.

Day 29: Bye bye big city, hello again fog - San Francisco to Half Moon Bay

We woke up ate as much if the breakfast buffet as we could and hit the road.
Our hotel was located in downtown San Francisco so our first bit if riding for the day was through some busy inner city neighborhoods then up some of those famous steep San Francisco streets and into Golden Gate park.
The park was both bustling and peaceful at the same time in the way that all great city parks seem to be, it reminded us of Regents and Hyde Parks in London.
We rode the length of the park from east to west where we then joined up with the Pacific Ocean again and we rode south on the Great Highway, by this point the sun had disappeared and the famous San Francisco fog had rolled in.
As we cycled along the busy highway next to beaches full of dog walkers and surfers Holly noticed an injured Seagull sat in the middle of the road (it may have been hit by a car), we stopped and managed to shepherd the bird to safety by the side of the road but its wing was broken and it could not fly, we got a passerby to call the SPCA and animal control but as it was a Sunday there was no reply, not wanting to give up another passer by took the injured bird into his car and said he would take it to an animal hospital, what a kind man, we hope this story has a happy ending and the bird recovers.
We continued cycling through Daly City, where we stopped for lunch, then on through Pacifica, the fog was really thick now, probably the thickest we seen. As we left Pacifica the fog cleared briefly as we begun the steep climb over a hill known as Devil's Slide, this seems like an apt name as it was probably the most dangerous section of riding we had done so far as the road was busy and steep with ni shoulder, we made it over the top and the descent wasn't a walk in the park either, the fog was back, it was steep and busy and there were huge potholes we needed to avoid but we made it down in one piece!
We ended the day in the town of Half Moon Bay, the fog was still thick and a bit chilly so we grabbed a motel room.
Miles today 34. Total miles 1,224.

Day 28: Heading for the 'frisco bay -Samuel P Taylor State Park to San Francisco

So we woke up and all five members if our tree circle camp group decided to ride together to San Francisco which was really nice. Our peloton set off from the park riding over some very rough roads and rolling terrain with a few hills but nothing like what we have seen recently. We stopped in the town of Fairfax to get some breakfast and then it was onwards to the big city.

Had a temporary stop in Larkspur as Amanda broke a spoke, luckily due to our previous misfortunes we had the tools to help her fix it, we all pitched in and with Todd's expert guidance Amanda fixed the wheel and we were on our way again. We rode down a bike lane then into  Saulisito, by now things were starting to get built up and we could see the city across the water, we climbed a hill and then there it was in front of us, the Golden Gate Bridge, by this point we had lost the others as we had stopped to take some pictures, which is a shame as they were all ending their trips in San Francisco and it would have been nice to say goodbye.

The bridge was crazy, lots of pedestrians and other cyclists but we managed to stop and enjoy the view and even saw some seals (or perhaps sea lions) playing in the water.Then we were in San Francisco.

We have been travelling for about a month now and we haven't been through a major metro area since leaving Vancouver so I must admit it was a bit of a culture shock, so many people and so much noise, I'd almost forgotten what city life was like, our hotel was downtown so we had to cycle through a park and then some busy city streets to get to the hotel.

We went out to stuff our faces with some diner food then rest day tomorrow to see the sites.

Miles today 33. Total miles 1190.

Day 27: The magical circles of trees - Bodega Dunes State Beach to Samuel P Taylor Park.

Along the trip you run into a lot of people following the suggested days in the book and since Manchester beach we had been bumping into and sharing hiker bikers with a few groups of peooke which is really nice. Last night sharing a picnic table with two girls from Port Townsend, Amanda and Rachel who actually knew the guy we had met in Bookings!
We all had a shorter day than yesterday, so took our time getting ready and headed out out around 10. The first 10 miles whizzed by, srriving in Valley Ford for some cookies and to stock up for lunch. We have both turned into eating machines!

The next few miles into Tomales following the sea inland along the bay, were a bit more trying, climbing 200 foot hills with a full on head wind and terrible road surfaces. One point coming downhill, the wind blew, my bike almost stopped it was so strong - you wonder if cars even notice when they drive along!

After Tomales was some long waited flat riding.... but nothing is that simple right? Right. The headwinds continued so strong, Dave my hero cycled I front with me tucked in behind so he'd take the brunt if it. Just like penguins.

We passed down along To males bay, which was just beautiful and Dave and I ate our sandwiches by a small secluded beach at Millerton Point.
Arriving in Olema we picked up our last groceries and found the bike oath leading to the campsite which was a welcomed break from the highway and bad road surface.
We hooked up with a Todd, a guy we had also met in Manchester and arrived together. The hiker biker in Samuel P Taylor is really large, but it's all on a hill so there is actually very little room for camping. Todd found some space past a falken tree and was like 'you gotta see this'
It was amazing, five or did redwoos trees all in a circle with space to camp in the middle. We decided to share the space and as we were setting up Amanda and Rachel arrived too who joined us.
Todd only had a small amount of food and rather him having to cycle to the next town (he had followed a different route) we all pooled our food together. It was everyone else's last night, so the girls had bought wine too! We had a feast of tuna pasta, cheese curd burritos, with crackers followed by briwnies and marshmallows.
It was a great night with great people.
Miles today 42. Total miles 1157.

Day 26: Switch back city - Manchester State Beach to Bodega Dunes State Beach

Today was immense, I have never seen so many hills, plus we logged our highest mileage total.
If you have been reading our previous posts you'll know that this trip has already been filled with hills of all different shapes and sizes but today was just crazy!
We began by getting up early as we wanted to cover a fair few miles today, it was hard to tell when night had ended and day begun as the moon had been so bright last night even penetrating the thick blanket of fog that had left everything in the camp as wet as a big storm.
We set out over some rolling hills making good time as we sped along in the morning sunshine, by 11-30 we had already covered quite a few miles so we stopped for an early lunch in the town of Gualala, eating at a picnic table overlooking the ocean, surrounded by hummingbirds, butterflies and seagulls, lovely.
The ride then continued past sprawling community of well to do neighbourhoods called Sea Ranch, which had some interesting architecture, including an amazing chapel. You can tell many Hollywood types live around these parts, hiding out by the sea.
Then came the beginning of the climbs, as the highway hugged the cliffs it would rise and fall with each cove which would result in a sharp descent then a hairpin bend then a steep descent. This layout made it impossible to gain momentum from the downhill and take it to the uphill as you lost it all in the sharp corner at the bottom.
As the hills got taller, the views got even more spectacular and the heat was rising too so it was very demanding, at one point there were some vultures circling above, I think maybe they were waiting for me to keel over.
We stopped to refule in Fort Ross as we new the next 10 miles were going to be even more demanding. Highway 1 at this point climbs over headlands and cattle grids, which is sectioned by a gate to close off the road if it becomes too unstable. Evebpn though the climb topped out at around 700 feet, the climbs were steep and with the deep coves leading up to the climbs gave you no run up. But when you reached the top.... wow!
The fist pay off was amazing, swinging down and around the bends, surrounded by cliffs and ocean. Each climb took you to a greater view, but the last down hill was breath taking - no wonder they film so many car ads along this stretch. This down hill was just switch back after switch back, it was actually just as hard as the uphills.
A quick stop in Jenner for some chocolate milk and powered in through the last 10 miles to camp. Totally exhausted, but totally exhilarated.
Miles today 69. Total miles 1,116.

Day 25: Roller coastal ride - Fort Bragg to Manchester Beach state park

From the advice of the bike shop in Arcata, I needed to get my new wheel checked. The bike shop opened in Fort Bragg are 9:30 but the guy was busy so we had to wait around until about 11:30, after a well needed stock up at Safeway, we didn't get going until a little before one. Oh well.
We took a break at the Jughandle State reserve to fill up on fruit and sandwiches (the previous night's Denny's meal wasn't too nutritious).
The whole day was up and down, and not just any ups and downs these were coastal bluff roads. Each down wizzed us around winding roads with breathtaking views. When you hit the bottom mind, you hit the bottom. It was deffinately a day of using each and every gear.
Once you made it to the top and the amazing vista point, it was back down again - just like a roller coaster!
After the town of Elk, where we stopped to top up our water supplies and an ice cream treat for me, we hit the steepest (apparently the steepest climb on the route). Wow not only was it steep, but there was this really strong head wind. I literally had to wait for a break in the wind to pedal as fast as I could until the next gust blew.
The wind was so strong at one point it blew my front tyre off the road, but I managed to keep going. It was strange but we hadn't seen a single cyclist all day, but at the climb they all appeared. One girl was pushing her bike up, but I was determined to make it all the way. Dave was, as always waiting at the top, cheering me on along with the girl's friend. More cyclists appeared and everyone cheered at reaching the top.
So we have now conquered the highest climb and the steepest, and with over 1000 miles behind us, feeling pretty damn chuffed with ourselves.
The road continued like this all the way to the campsite. Manchester beach is probably the most primitive we have stayed in, with no showers or sinks and just pit loos. Its not too bad, its just really windy - we broken out our emergengy blankets tonight to make sure we stay warm.
Miles today 40. Total miles 1047.

Day 24: Every little helps... Richardson Grove State Park to Standish Hickey campground.

We had an amazing rest day with our friends Matt and Leah who drove up from Chico and brought us food and beer! After saying goodbye we didn't get packed up until late and didn't feel so up to the 1200 foot Legget hill, so decided to take a short day just 16 miles up the road (still lots of climbing) and settled in Standish Hickey hiker biker, but we figured going a few miles was better than none.

We took a break at Confusion Hill on route, which is one of only few road side attractions left.

After a hit ride we arrived at Standish hickey. It was the first hiker biker we were in where we were the only ones there. The only problem was we were really limited on food as there were no grocery stores on route.

Luckily Leah and Matt left us with some bits of food, so we managed to have a very nutritious dinner of freeze dried eggs with new potatoes, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and half an apple! Ready for our big climb first thing in the morning.

Miles today 16. Total miles 961.